Sunday, February 27, 2011

Monk Fringe

noun- the beautifully quaffed hair encompassing the periphery of the scalp of a male religious living in a cloister and devoting himself to contemplation and prayer and work. (Ex- see Friar Tuck.)
verb- unusual activity practiced during Schuster family functions; cause of origin: unknown

If you’re not a member of my immediate family, I realize that the aforementioned statements make absolutely no sense. Don’t worry about it. If it made sense to you, you would be a Schuster and then you’d have even bigger fish to fry haha.

However, I mention all of this because today we went to a monastery! Specifically the Sergiyev Posad, approximately an hour outside of Moscow by train. This is a major religious site for Russians; many pilgrimage there, as it is a very hallowed place. Today, Max, Marie, Dr. Katie McKee (our newest addition- our fabulous new teacher for the month of March), Maxime (from France), Miles and I made the journey to see what all the fuss was about. I’ll let the pictures tell you, but to say it was amazing wouldn’t do the day justice.

One Night in Ukraine

In class on Friday, I decided that I had spent enough time inside the dorm. It was time for a group activity, and I was going to participate. Sometime enough’s enough and staying inside one more night would have put me over the edge. Although I still wasn’t feeling back to my normal self, I knew making the effort to get ready and actively pursue a goal would be stimulating. Every now and then if you fake it, it might come true. I told myself I was going to be healthy, so for that night I was.
After my weeklong experimentation in polar isolation, I would have been happy to go to McDonalds for dinner (which we have done twice already by the way). However, when I made my declaration of adventure in class, Max suggested a Ukrainian restaurant a few metro stops away. He had sound reasoning for his selection that immediately swayed us…“It’s good”.
Boy, he wasn’t kidding either. I didn’t bring my camera, and I wish I had because this restaurant was exquisitely charming. The exterior resembled a traditional Ukrainian home (apparently gingerbread houses are very popular there) with window boxes, wooden arches and white walls. The interior was quaint and cozy- very much like walking into a family’s mountain home. The ceiling was exposed wood, as were the walls. The décor looked as though someone had taken it from a grandmother’s house- dark woods, vibrantly colored cushions, pictures of ordinary people on the walls and ornate tapestries covering parts of the walls.
Because Max had called ahead for seating, we had our own room. I couldn’t have asked for a better setting. The room was small, maybe half the size of a freshmen dorm room. There was a large bench attached to one wall, making up one side of the table’s seating with chairs comprising the other part. It added to the comfort and intimacy of the space. I mean, with 11 of us it’s going to be pretty intimate regardless, but here I felt like we were a family. The waitresses were dressed in traditional Ukrainian dress, which includes an intricate flower headdress. Shelli and I (the 2 waitresses of the group) were both amazed that they didn’t knock them off their heads during the service. Had it been me, someone would have had flowers in his/her borscht.
When I asked Max what was good here, a simple “everything” assured me that I was about to have a good meal. Ukrainian food is very hearty and homey. It’s simple, and savory. The waitresses brought out bread with a spread in many small pots. It wasn’t until after our first piece that Nadia informed us that the delicious, scrumptious spread we were consuming was pure pig fat. In shock, I replied “I’m sorry, did someone send me back to South Carolina? I just ate straight fatback?” Oh well, when in Moscow do as the Ukrainians do…? Another traditional (and surprising) addition to our meal was a drink made of vodka, honey and horseradish. The first two ingredients sound delectable, however it’s the third that threw me for a loop. Despite all reservations, the drink was tasty (not without an intense kick, mind you) and when chased with a bite of a pickle, I can understand its appeal.
As my appetite had diminished over the week, I was already filling up from two slices of pumpernickel so I decided to get a small portion of mushroom dumplings. It was heaven. The mushrooms were tender and had to have been cooked in a sherry of sorts because the flavor was perfect- sweet but savory. The dumplings themselves were well made and surprisingly light. On top were sautéed mushrooms and a dollop of sour cream (it’s everywhere in Russia). When (yes “when”, not “if”) we return, I’ll have to get the largest portion because they could have been the best things I’ve eaten here in Russia.
I couldn’t have asked for a better night with better food and better company. The dynamics of our group are so strong it’s amazing we all have known each other less than a month. Sitting around the table, eating practically homemade food, I realized the importance of good friends and good family. Without either, the experience of the night would have been wasted. It takes great conversations from good friends to turn an isolating room in a Ukrainian restaurant into a family dinner table. And it takes the knowledge gained from having a good family to realize how precious it is to find such comfort and love in others. I’d say it was a pretty great night.

I opened the door…

And influenza. (Get it? “In-flew-Enza”).
This past week was flooded with disease. It was such a significant occurrence that I am going to devote an entire blog to it because you cannot imagine the inconvenience and turmoil being sick abroad can cause. As I have mentioned before, the cold is biting, howling, yelling, asking, telling, barking, etc. so my fellow Americans and I spend a lot of time together inside. This type of cohabitation is bound to draw up disease. Like a ticking bomb, it’s only a matter of time.
I was stuck first. (At least I think I was, it’s a toss up between Nadia and I). I had a brutal case of the sniffles, which was followed by a fever, and then the chills and then sweating and then a headache and then a migraine and then a whole bunch of orange juice and hibernation. It left me feeling extremely dejected because not only was I in pain, but my friends went out to a Georgian restaurant without me! (Only kidding, I was happy to stay in bed... it just invokes more sympathy to say they left me haha). I haven’t felt that ill in such a long time. Also, it didn’t help that the heat in my room is slightly defective causing an ice-box type effect. It was just lovely.
As a result of all of my woes, I was in such a state of sorrow. For this type of misery there is only one cure (besides self-pity)… MOULIN ROUGE. There’s something about Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor and those catchy song and dance numbers that makes me really happy. Don’t judge me. But basically, I laid in bed all week and watched movies online (such an active lifestyle).
After a solid 3 days, my fever finally broke. I was left with intense, but manageable, nasal congestion and a wicked cough (wicked as in malevolent, not Boston/British slang). So it wasn’t clearly determined what illness overcame my poor body this past week, but I can say that it was a filthy one. It was a dirty, rotten scoundrel but I am lucky to say I prevailed! Good always triumphs over evil.
Well, this has been a sufficiently cheerful blog. I do believe that this predicament is worthy of documentation though because it’s most definitely part of the Russian experience. It’s cold and damp in Moscow, if you don’t get sick you’re a freak of nature. I’m sure this has been a positively stimulating piece of literature. I’ll add better blogs soon!

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Picture Assignment


Russia is getting colder. And accordingly, we are not leaving the dorm as much because hypothermia is not a desirable condition. However, on Friday (2/18/11) we ventured out into the arctic tundra to take pictures for an assignment. Although I couldn’t feel my face or my hands, my group and I had a great time! The assignment was to take pictures that would adhere to specific rules (rule of threes, interesting angles, etc.) We stayed close to the dorm, taking pictures outside and within academic buildings. This is what we came up with! Oh, and a few pictures feature my groupmates, Lena and Max!

Monday, February 7, 2011

Red Square

Saying Russia is cold is a complete understatement. The temperature is cold, yes. However, once you factor in the wind, the snow, and the “70 degrees is cold” mentality of a South Carolinian you have an absolutely arctic combination. I should say that it’s not entirely intolerable, but categorizing it as slightly unfavorable doesn’t do the weather justice. This is a necessary preface because it gives insight into the reasoning behind my unwillingness to leave the hostel. I’m not usually a boring person, but I am afraid that I have caught a case of boredom recently; I think it’s safe to say that we all have. (This is no reflection of the Russian’s hospitality btw, it’s just cold and we prefer to hide from it than venture out)
So, on one fateful night, I was sick of it! I came into the classroom where everyone was congregating and announced to everyone “We are doing something fun tonight, dammit!” Everyone ardently agreed and we set out to find something to do. This was our first venture without the Russians (Nadia was with us though, so I suppose that’s not entirely true) and we couldn’t have been more excited. The metro was much more enchanting while riding it with only Americans. I think after riding it over and over, the Metro would become standard and mundane, but not for us. We took pictures of the stunning stations and looked around at all of the colorful passengers.
Miles looked up a restaurant before we left that had traditional Russian food. However, when we went to the address, the restaurant was gone! We couldn’t find it anywhere! The whole experience was hilarious because it was just our luck to lose a restaurant. So, we decided to go to a sushi restaurant that was nearby. Let me tell you (in case you were wondering), sushi tastes exactly the same in Moscow as it does in the US. I don’t think we’ll go there again, not because it wasn’t delicious (because it most certainly was) but I would prefer to engage in the Russian experience sans the ubiquity of modern mass culture.
Okay, so dinner is over! What next? Well, we weren’t exactly sure (we hadn't planned that far ahead). To pass time we walked back to the Metro, taking pictures and gabbing about the magnificence of Moscow. Seriously though, Moscow is beautiful. There is such culture and charm within the center of the city; charm that is rooted in its age and history. The buildings are stunning and intricately ornate, and the people are fascinating. They are eclectic in style and dress (I'll try to get pictures without being awkward or creepy!) I love it here.
Anyway, on our way back to the metro we decided to go to Red Square! I was so excited because I missed out on the scenic tour of Moscow that the other students participated in upon their arrival. We studied the Metro stations, found the right one and began walking to Red Square. I know this sounds corny, but my anticipation grew and grew the closer we got to the landmark. I mean come on, Red Square is the pinnacle of Moscow. When you’re standing on the sidewalk in front of traffic, you can be in any city. There is a sort of anonymity associated with busy streets, the cluster of people and traffic lights. But standing in Red Square there is no denying you are in Moscow. Red Square IS Moscow.
It was one of the most breathtaking sights I’ve ever seen in my life. St. Basil’s Cathedral does not look real. As one of my friend’s said, it looks like it belongs in the game Candyland and I couldn’t agree with her more. I was completely overcome by the majesty of the place and I had the enthusiasm of a small child as I was skipping on the cobblestones. I think the feeling was transcendent throughout our entire group, because we all had a magnificent time. I want to go back again soon!

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Fixed!

Shelli said that I can use my memory card to directly upload pictures onto my computer! Problem solved :-)

Shoot


Okay, so in my hurried packing I forgot to pack the cord that connects my camera to my computer. So I can’t upload pictures… fabulous. I’ll just make sure that my friends here take a whole bunch of pictures so I can show them to you! I feel so dumb…

Hanging Out


It’s very important to know how to converse here in Russia because we spend a lot of time hanging out together. It’s great for me though because I absolutely love to talk. The girls spend a lot of time together: me, Nadia, Shelli, Karlie and Marie.
Nadia is originally from Ukraine but she lived in France for about 13 years. She has the most wonderful accent, it’s a combination of French and Russian. For those of you who know me very well know that I love accents so I’m trying to pick hers up haha. She is a little older than the rest of us (btw, I had no idea she was older, the French/Ukrainian are beautiful!) but I can’t tell at all because she is so lively and enthusiastic. She is very helpful while traveling around our town because she is fluent in Russian, so she’s helped us a lot in the grocery store. I enjoy her company very much because she is very worldly and I love hearing her talk about her hometown of Dijon.
Shelli is from Lousianna. She is not the typical southern type, which is kind of what I expected (you know, Lily and pearl wearing/Carolina Cup type). She is extremely effervescent and so enthusiastic about everything. She reminds me so much of my best friends from home (Emily and Kitty especially). I really like being around her because she is very sunshine-like which is needed in this grey weather of Russia.
Karlie is from Virginia. She studied abroad in Ghana last semester, which is amazing. She is more reserved than Shelli and Nadia, but she has a great smile (I know that seems creepy but it’s true). Her family owns a beef-raising farm in Virginia, which she is very knowledgeable about. I can tell that she knows a lot about the world because sometimes she says very specific facts, which never cease to amaze me. Although she’s sometimes quiet, she definitely has the best one liners.
Marie is also from Virginia, she goes to Virginia Tech with Karlie. Marie reminds me a lot of my friend Leacy, she’s very intelligent (everyone is very smart btw, I don’t mean to single out just Karlie and Marie as the “smart ones” haha) and a little sarcastic. I love sarcasm so her personality is an excellent balance to Shelli and my hyper energetic characters. I really like Marie because she is extremely easy to talk to as well. She would be the friend who I would turn to if I had a problem (which is the same as Leacy).
But overall, we all balance out each other very well. I have a feeling that we’ll keep in touch for a long time after we leave Moscow!

Movies


On my third night here, we decided to go see a movie in English. There are definitely slim pickings for such a specific order, so we were stuck going to a movie about the Jihad in England at a theater in the center of Moscow. I didn’t care for the subject matter of the movie but I was so excited to go to the center of Moscow that I would have gone to see a movie about grass growing.
We took the metro, which could be one of the most efficient systems I’ve ever seen. Also the metro stations are beautiful. For those who don’t know, the metros have stained glass windows, chandeliers, marble floors and some of the most interesting people I’ve ever seen. There are people from all walks of life in the metro, from women in heels and fur coats (I wanted to be like them haha) to people in work out gear and parkas. I would have been content to stay on the metro and just people watch.
We reached our stop and began to walk. Unfortunately, our group (3 Americans and 3 Russians) were not entirely sure how to get to the theater. After about 30 minutes of walking and questioning a police officer, we found the theater. The movie was a dud. It was funny but at the same time it was attempting to be poignant, I don’t know- not my cup of tea. But it was an experience we all shared together, so it was a good one.
After the movie, we rode back to our part of town (it’s slightly north of Moscow- maybe 5 stops outside the center of town). We stopped and got schwarma (sharma, shooma, schwurma, I don’t remember exactly what it’s called haha). It’s basically a wrap with some kind of meat and tons of vegetables and I think maybe hummus inside, it’s not bad. We sat around for about 2 hours talking about how strange the movie was and making plans for this weekend. We know we want to go to the zoo eventually, but we’re not sure when that’ll happen. I’ll keep you posted!

Skating

Yes, I went ice skating. (I’m sorry mom, I know I told you I wouldn’t go because you thought I’d break my arm but I didn’t fall and had an absolute blast!) I was a little apprehensive about going at first because I have skated maybe twice in my life, but after going around the rink twice I got the hang of it. I’m lucky in that I’m decently coordinated, which made everything more fun.
But let me talk about how we got to the rink. Moscow traffic is insane. There are lines on the roads but it’s difficult to see them and sometimes they aren’t there at all. I’m just glad that I don’t have to drive here because I would have panic attacks at every turn. We rode with Max, a Russian guy who speaks English very well. He and Maksim (the quiet guy from France who seems extremely nice but doesn’t speak any English) rode in the front while Marie, Karlie and I squeezed into the back. We were joking that if we got into an accident we would be fine because there was no way any of us would be able to move. Anyway, we made it but not without a few honked horns, speeding cars and a dump truck stopping in the middle of the road (no big deal…).
I can’t lie, ice skating was the most fun experience I’ve had in a while. I was skeptical at first about doing something so seemingly stereotypical but I promised myself that I would take advantage of every opportunity presented to me (because hey, you only live once, right?).  It was a great bonding experience for everyone because it allowed us to have something in common. Max and Christina (a Russian girl who is friends with Max and Maksim (yes, another Maksim but this one is Russian and speaks English very well too- he’s really nice and funny)) were the best skaters, and led us in a traditional Russian skating game. Basically you line up in two lines and hold hands with the person across from you (like you’re making a tunnel). Then a single skater (an odd number of people is necessary for this game) skates through the tunnel and grabs a person’s hand and drags them to the end of the line. Then the partnet left is the new skater. It’s not as barbaric as it sounds (dragging someone through a tunnel haha) and it’s a lot of fun because there’s always the risk of falling.
After skating we all went to McDonalds (yup, there is McDonalds in Russia). I wasn’t hungry so I split a small McFlurry with Shelli (American who was going to be my roommate but lives next door- she’s a riot and so so nice too). Apparently McDonalds is very popular among students in Moscow, it’s funny how things are similar here and there.
But anyway, things are amazing here. This would be an experience I’ll remember forever.

Welcome

Professor Konstantin Malashenkov and a fellow student named Sasha greeted me at the airport. I met Konstantin Malashenkov when he was visiting Clemson University in late October. During this meeting, I was wearing flip flops, which he laughed at and said I wouldn’t be able to wear in Moscow. So, of course when he saw me he pointed and said he was happy I wasn’t wearing flip flops (because 4 inch heeled boots are a much more practical choice).
They told me that today was a “warm” day, the temperature was only 0 degrees. Now, upon first hearing this my stomach dropped. Warm at 0 degrees is insanity. Anyway, you can imagine my surprise when I walked outside and didn’t turn into an ice cube. Actually, the sun was shining and the wind wasn’t bad, so compared to the heat of the airport the cold felt nice. I was a excited- little southern girl thinks 0 degrees is refreshing. (Yeah, about that, they use the Celsius system Russia so 0 degree is more like 32)
Anyway, Professor Malashenkov was very nice as well as the boy Sasha. Sasha did keep trying to hold my arm so I wouldn’t fall on the ice. I suppose my concept of chivalry is non-existent because at first I thought he was just being creepy. Haha, I need to meet new guys apparently. We first went to the administration building to register my papers, then we went to the dorm. I was exhausted after not sleeping but I was so excited to meet everything that I was hyper. It’s amazing how things work out because the people I’m staying with are some of the nicest and most interesting people I’ve ever met (both Russian and American). It’s going to be a fun 4 months, I can already tell.
I’m living by myself, as this was the only room left. I’m not complaining though because I can listen to my music without having to worry about displeasing someone else. The rooms are basic but surprisingly comfortable and cozy. I like it here a lot. I haven’t felt homesick or sad yet, which I might attribute to the non-stop activities we’ve been doing.
The first night I was here, we all stayed up late talking and listening to music. It was an absolute blast. It wasn’t until I realized that I had been awake for nearly 36 hours that I decided to go to bed. I slept in until about 4 pm. Considering we were up until 6, this wasn’t a completely absurd amount of time if you think about it. 

Flying


Now that I’ve been in Russia nearly 5 days, I think it will be important to update my blog. So much has happened, but I need to make sure that I include important details so I’ll begin with my flight….
Woke up On Sunday morning, January 30 2011, at 7:00am. I had a very important mental list to complete before leaving for Charlotte airport including showering, blow drying my hair, make up, clothes and packing all of my belongings for 4 months in Russia(you know, the thing I should have done a week ago… no big deal). Surprisingly I was able to complete all tasks without a problem and some time left over, which was a big shock because I am never on time. No, seriously- my mom can attest to this- on time is strange concept for me especially when I have to do my hair.
Anyway, my mom and dad piled everything into the car: 1 checked bag, 1 carry on and my gigantic tote bag/”purse”. The soundtrack for the car ride was provided by Wilson Pickett (Mustang Sally, etc.). It was a lively upbeat CD to mask the silence of my anxiety haha. I never like to admit when I’m nervous about something (and I still won’t admit it now) but if there ever was a time for nerves that car ride was definitely it.
We arrived at the airport and now it was time to retrieve the tickets. Now, I have failed to mention the weight limit of the checked bag. It’s 50 pounds. I had to fit 4 months of clothes into a bag all weighing less than 50 pounds. My mom was so nervous it wasn’t going to work and I’m sure had multiple back up plans on the off chance it was overweight. So, when I sat my suitcase on the scale I was definitely holding my breath. Miraculously, it was 50.5 pounds!! After that, the whole trip was easy as pie haha.
Seriously though, that was the hardest part about traveling- the weight limit. I made it to my connecting flight from Charlotte to JKF in New York without problems. Once arriving in NY I had about 4 hours to kill, one of which I spent sitting in an airport restaurant, which resulted in paying for a $20 side salad and diet coke. Yes, $20 for a side salad and a diet coke. That’s not okay.
After that ridiculous expense, I sat in the terminal. I tried to read but I was interrupted by a kid asking me where the bathroom was… in Russian. I guess he assumed I was Russian and I pointed to the bathrooms. I’m not going to lie, it made me feel really cool. Oh! An interesting thing I noticed about Russian women- they don’t smile. At least the ones in the airport didn’t. They were all very tall and statuesque with beautiful Eastern European faces, but they held those faces in a permanent pout. So, of course I mimicked that too. Haha, it was fun pretending to be aloof for a while.
The plane ride to Moscow wasn’t too terrible. I had an aisle seat with two empty seats on my left. I can’t say I wasn’t happy to sit by myself (I was nervous about having to make tentative conversation with a Russian). I watched a movie, tried to read, tried to sleep, stared aimlessly at the char in front of me, all to no avail because I was bored out of my mind. The flight was only 8 hours though, and I’ve certainly spent more time being bored.
As the plane landed, my excitement grew. I think I was in slight denial about actually living in Russia, so when the plane began its decent into Moscow it hit me that this was real. I am actually going to a foreign country and I am actually going to live there. This is a scary concept, but one that I was ready for.